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TEMPERATURE:

For your phalaenopsis we would recommend temperatures around

      Day      18.5 - 30 C       (66 - 86 f)  

      Night      16.5 - 18.5 C      (62 - 66 f)

  Don't reduce the night temperature below 12C (55 f).  Although it may look fine, your plant will not bloom but just 'tick over'.  If your conditions are near to this minimum, keep your orchid quite dry.  Higher day time temperatures are no problem as long as your plant is in a shady place and humidity and airflow are good.

  LIGHT:

      Being accustomed to the dappled light of the forest, moth orchids dislike direct sunlight, especially through glass.  Indirect sunlight is ideal.

  WATERING:

      If your orchid has been grown in a peat, perlite and bark mixture it's important to let the compost dry out between waterings.

      Water well from the top taking care to keep the centre of the plant dry and leave to drain.  Don't let your plant stand in excess water and if the pot is placed inside another container, make sure it isn't standing in trapped water.

      Rain water is recommended but distilled water can be used instead as long as you remember to add fertiliser.  An occasional water with tap water will do no harm.

  FEEDING:

      Feed your plant regularly with orchid fertiliser when you water. Every fourth watering leave out the fertiliser to allow any build up of salts to be washed from the compost.  Plants in poor condition should have very low levels of fertiliser, if any, until a substantial root system is reestablished.

  HUMIDITY:

      If you live in a dry atmosphere, standing the plant on a moist gravel tray will create a micro climate and assist growth.  Make sure that the base of the pot is above the water level.  Putting the pot on an upturned saucer would help lift it slightly.  Gently misting the plants early in the morning can be useful if the air is really dry.

  COMPOST:

      Your moth orchid doesn't like a heavy compost but prefers its roots to dry between waterings.   A well aerated, free draining compost is best.  We use:-

      2 parts fibrous peat (the peat is brought to a pH of 6.2)

      1 part coarse perlite

      1 part bark

      a small quantity of charcoal

  and sometimes

      bark with chopped sphagnum moss

  POTTING:

      This is usually carried out every other year between March and June.

  FLOWERS:

        The flowers of your moth orchid may look delicate but are extremely long lasting, often remaining in good condition for three months.  When the flowers die, cut the stem back just above a node, leaving 30cm (12") or so of stem.  Often a secondary spike, or flower stem, is produced from this node and your orchid can be back in flower after two to three months.

       Because the moth orchid does not have an annual rhythm like most plants we grow, it may produce flower spikes any time of the year.  Should a large, healthy plant fail to produce a flower spike in a reasonable time (six months), reduce the temperature by 5 C (8 f) for four weeks and that should encourage flowering.

  OTHER HINTS:

      *  The moth orchid likes home conditions similar to you.  It doesn't like standing next to or directly above a heater or radiator and it dislikes draughts.

        *  Occasionally a leaf may go yellow and drop off.  Don't worry; it's quite normal.

        *  If it loses lots of leaves, you are probably overwatering and giving it a root problem.

        * If your orchid should suffer serious leaf loss, stop watering and feeding for four weeks.  This can encourage new roots to be produced.

A perfect gift.  Send a phaly to a friend.

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Last modified: February 01, 2006