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Cymbidium are classed as 'cool growing' orchids.  We would recommend :-

Day      16 - 20 C (61 - 68 f)

Night      11.5 - 14 C (53 - 58 f) 

It's very important that the night temperature falls below 15 C (58 f) when the flower buds are developing otherwise they may drop off prematurely.

  LIGHT:

      When indoors, keep your plant in a light position.  From June to late September it should be placed outside as your cymbidium needs the light, air and most importantly, temperature differential (a reasonable drop in temperature at night) if it is to produce flowers for the following season.

  WATERING:

      If your orchid has been grown in a peat and perlite mix, allow the bulk of the compost to become dry before giving a thorough watering.  Be careful not to waterlog the compost by watering too frequently.  BUT if it's in rockwool, never allow the compost to dry out completely or it will harden.  It's extremely difficult to make the rockwool hold sufficient moisture again.

    Never stand the plant in excess water but make sure that it's allowed to drain away.  Be especially careful if the pot is placed inside another container where the water may get trapped.

  FEEDING:

      Feed your plant regularly with orchid fertiliser when you water. Every fourth watering leave out the fertiliser to allow any build up of salts to be washed from the compost.  Plants in poor condition should have very low levels of fertiliser, if any, until a substantial root system is reestablished.

      To help flower spike initiation, do not fertilise during July.

  HUMIDITY:

      If you live in a dry atmosphere, standing the plant on a moist gravel tray will create a micro climate and assist growth.  Make sure that the base of the pot is above the water level.  Putting the pot on an upturned saucer would help lift it slightly.

  COMPOST:

      Your cymbidium is a terrestrial orchid which doesn't like a heavy compost preferring its roots to dry between waterings.   A well aerated, free draining compost is best.  We are currently using:-

      2 parts fibrous peat (the peat is brought to a pH of 6.2)

      1 part coarse perlite

      (Sometimes growers also add bark.)

  In the past we have successfully used Rockwool - absorbent type.

  POTTING:

      This should be carried out in March to May, or directly after flowering.  If you are changing from peat or bark to rockwool it is important to remove all the organic material i.e. peat or bark, and vice versa.

  FLOWERS:

      Large flowered varieties usually bloom from November to May, with flowers lasting eight to twelve weeks.  Miniature varieties usually bloom from October to May, with flowers lasting six to eight weeks.

      Cymbidium flower spikes need supporting as they develop to give the best effect. This is usually done by loosely tying the growing spike to a short garden cane.  When the flowers have faded, cut down the spikes to around 5 cm (2 in).

  SUMMER CARE: (Flower spike initiation)

      Place your cymbidium in an unheated greenhouse or out of doors from late June to the end of September as it needs the light, air and a drop in night temperature to produce flowers the following season.

      When putting it out, take care to 'harden' your plant to the outside conditions, particularly the high light.  Place it in a semi-shaded position, then gradually increase light levels.  When returning your plant indoors, acclimatise it gradually.  A sudden burst of heat could result in bud drop.

  OTHER HINTS:

*  Never stand your plant too close to a heater or radiator, nor in a draught.

*  Plants will lose the odd leaf from time to time.  Don't worry.

It's that simple - why not send a cymbidium to a friend as a gift?

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Last modified: February 01, 2006